Seems like Google Chrome is not displaying my site according to the stylesheet.
When the page first load, it loads fine...but then it changes to raw html format towa
Had this same issue, spent hours going around in circles wondering "What the hell have I done!", I tried many of the suggestions from this site and many others but the thing that worked for me and I felt kind of stupid afterwards for not trying it was to disable ad-blocker for chrome, followed by a shift+f5 and problem solved.
I tried this on OS X with the same Chrome version as you and everything is rendered correctly for the dark and light versions. It could be a caching problem for you. Hold down the shift key while you reload the page. This will force the browser to get all of the resources and ignore the cached versions.
Maybe a caching problem on your side. Can you try "Shift+Ctrl+R"?
Do you have HTTPS everywhere + Adblock installed? If so, I've found that clicking through google search results will often produce this behavior when the main site has no, or limited https support.
I notice the same behavior, with those extensions, when I search for and click through an XKCD comic, for example.
Temporarily disabling https everywhere, or re-entering the URL without https seems to fix it for me.
Change css charset to UTF8. It fixed my issue.
On my friend's laptop it was caused by some DNS problems. After changing DNS to 8.8.8.8 everything is fine.