A few pointers:
- SOM package
- Kohonen package
Most of the SOM related packages are from the Chemometrics and Computational Physics area, but you also have a look at the cluster view on CRAN.
Edit: Incidentally, I'm not aware of any tutorials, but one good way to find examples is to google with ext:r. There are several "som" scripts that show up that way, including this example which shows how to use it with GGobi.