I think the first thing to ask is: Why is friend considered to be something that must be used with caution?
Because it breaks encapsulation. It provides another class or function with access to the internals of your object, thus expanding the visible scope of your private members. If you have a lot of friends, it's much harder to reason about the state of your object.
In my opinion, the template solution is even worse than friend in that regard. Your main stated benefit of the template is that you no longer need to explicitly friend the test from the class. I argue that, on the contrary, this is a detriment. There are two reasons for that.
The test is coupled to the internals of your class. Anyone changing the class should know that by changing the privates of the object that they may be breaking the test. friend tells them exactly what objects might be coupled to the internal state of your class, but the template solution doesn't.
Friend limits the scope expansion of your privates. If you friend a class, you know that only that class may access your internals. Thus, if you friend the test, you know that only the test can read or write to private member variables. Your template back door, however, could be used anywhere.
The template solution is ineffective because it hides the problem rather than fixing it. The underlying issue with the cyclic dependency still exists: someone changing the class must know about every use of the back door, and someone changing the test must know about the class. Basically, the reference to the test from the class was removed only by making all private data into public data in a roundabout way.
If you must access private members from your test, just friend the test fixture and be done with it. It's simple and understandable.