I started using IRC at a young age, and I have always been fascinated with it. As a language exercise, I was thinking about programming a simple IRC client in Ruby with Shoes a
I once implemented a client and a server with 2 more guys (as part of a course).
I can tell you that the RFC you were already linked to is great.
I'd also try simply sniffing a connection with an existing client to see for yourself how stuff work.