I updated the permalink structure to /%postname%/ and this updated my .htaccess with:
# BEGIN WordPress RewriteEngine On Rewri
This is now solved. I hadn't enabled mod_rewrite. So I did this:
$ sudo a2enmod rewrite Enabling module rewrite. To activate the new configuration, you need to run: service apache2 restart $ service apache2 restart * Restarting web server apache2